Saddle Set-Up and Adjustments
Saddle Set-Up and Adjustments for your Spiderflex REC
Saddle Set-up and adjustments for The Spiderflex Recreational saddle (REC), are designed to distribute the rider's weight properly and relieve pressure points.
Most riders will experience an adjustment period in switching from a conventional saddle to a hornless saddle, and in many cases, it is just a matter of getting more familiar with the ergonomic design of the Spiderflex REC saddle and getting some miles on it.
Each rider's saddle set-up is different, and the key is to find your balance between the saddle and the bars, now that the horn is removed.
With the horn removed, the ergonomic design of the Spiderflex REC allows the rider to distribute their weight more evenly, and reduce the pressure on the ischial tuberosities, or what is more commonly referred to in the cyclist world as the "sit-bones".
There are three adjustments to find the proper balance between the saddle and the handlebars.
Saddle height
Find your proper saddle height. Your leg should be 90 to 95% extended at the bottom of your downstroke.
Fore and aft position
Position the saddle to where your arms are in a natural and comfortable position on the bars. The closer you move the saddle forward, you transfer more of your upper body weight to the saddle, and off the bars.
Tilt adjustment
Tilt adjustment for your Spiderflex REC saddle is dependent on the type of riding you do. These tips are a guideline for your initial adjustment of the REC saddle. Fine tuning of the tilt adjustment will depend on your own individual style of riding.
Saddle Tilt Adjustment Specs
Cruiser Bikes & Hybrid Bikes
The majority of recreational riders, commuters, & bike path riders prefer an upright riding position. Initial adjustment for this type of riding is to raise the front of the base to the point where the shock is straight up and down, giving the seat area a flatter stance.
Road Bikes & Mountain Bikes
Road and mountain bike riders tend to transfer more of their body weight on to the handlebars while riding. Initial adjustment for this type of riding is to have the base parallel with the ground, giving the saddle a slight forward angle.
Road Bike Saddle Set-Up
90% of our sales are to recreational riders, who are in a more upright riding position. That being said, we have customers using the Spiderflex REC saddle that are competing in Cat.4 and Cat.5 road racing events, so there is no question that a rider can adapt to a hornless saddle, and compete at that level.
This saddle is also heavy for road racers (680 grams). When we do sell to road racers, it is usually because of injury, and they are looking for a saddle that will totally relieve the groin pressure when they are riding. It's a matter of making the proper adjustments to suit your riding style on a road bike frame, and commiting to those adjustments, in order to get the health benefits a hornless saddle provides.
Each rider's set-up is different, and the key is to find your balance between the seat and the bars, now that the horn is removed. This adjustment period seems to take longer on a road bike frame because of the bars being lower than the seat height. Recreational riders, who are in a more upright riding position, seem to adapt to a hornless saddle much easier because of the higher handlebar set-up.
When switching over to a hornless saddle on a road bike frame, the higher you can get the handlebar height, the better. The higher handlebar height transfers your upper body weight back to the saddle, and off the bars. Now that your weight is transferred more to the saddle, the ergonomic design of the Spiderflex displaces your weight more evenly, while taking the pressure off of the perineum area.
Taking the pressure off your arms and hands can be achieved several ways. Your local bike shop can help on these adjustments.
1 - Raising the bars - Spacers can be added, or you may be able to flip the stem over and raise the bars that way, or purchase either a stem with a higher angle, or an adjustable stem which will allow the angle of the stem to be changed.
2 - Widening the handlebars will also help to reduce pressure on the hands. This can be achieved in several ways, or in combination:
A - Winged handlebars
B - Oversized handlebars
For any handlebar, you can place the cables on either side of the handlebar when you wrap your bars.
If you draw a line through the middle of the cables and handlebar, it should be parrallel to the ground. It should look something like this -o-
The dash "-" represent the cables and the "o" represents the handlebar.
3 - Moving the saddle forward, to transfer your upper body weight off the bars.
Please view our Road Bike Set-Up profiles below.
Spider Rider Profiles / Road Bike Set-Ups
David Fisher / Spiderflex REC / Set-Up / Fuji - Team Pro
Here is my method for setting the seat position on the Spiderflex REC. With a regular seat it is pretty much 1,2,3. First you put the seat in a horizontal position. Then you adjust the seat height so that your knee has a slight bend with the pedal in the 6 o'clock position. Next you adjust the forward/backward position so that your knee is in line with your foot over the pedal when the pedal is in the 3 o'clock position. That gets you relatively close to where one wants to be with minor changes to account for riding style, etc.
With the Spiderflex seat it is not so simple. You can't use anything previously determined from the old seat position. I start out putting the seat on with the rails parallel to the floor. From there I adjust the height and forward/backward position like a regular seat. Now the fun begins. With a regular seat everything is between your legs so there is no interference from the seat where the leg and butt connect. The Spiderflex is sort of like a chair and if the angle of the seat is not correct it will rub you in the bend between the butt and leg. This is how I determine the seat angle. It is trial and error and will generally take several rides to get this right. The less experience you have with the seat, the more time it takes to work this out.
Because of the angled seat position the torso is angled forward toward the bars. It becomes necessary to have the bars in a higher position than with a regular seat because you will be pushed forward, placing a lot of pressure on the hands. On my Fuji I have all the spacers in place and a stem that is angled up rather than down. I think that the bar position is extremely important to make this seat work. I do not think that it is unusual to make changes some weeks after you think you have it right. If one is patient the rewards are tremendous.
With a road bike the comfortable position for me is probably more upright than most would be used to riding. For the fitness rider I can't see this as a problem. I can still get into the drops and it doesn't feel awkward at all.
Danny Finneran / Spiderflex REC Set-Up / Time Trial Bike
(Click Here to Read Danny Finneran's Story!)
My TT bike set up is with the saddle angle down, rails parallel with the ground. I raised the handlebar height compared to my old fit, and then I tilted the aerobars up about 20 degrees (Like the old Floyd Landis position). As for my road bike, about the same thing ..... saddle tilted down, raising the handlebars and using wide handle bars (to reduce the pressure on the hands).
NOTE - Widening the handlebars will help to reduce pressure on the hands.
This can be achieved in several ways, or in combination:
A - Winged handlebars
B - Oversized handlebars
For any handlebar, you can place the cables on either side of the handlebar when you wrap your bars. If you draw a line through the middle of the cables and handlebar, it should be parrallel to the ground. It should look something like this -o- The dash "-" represent the cables and the "o" represents the handlebar.
Michael Sykes / Spiderflex REC Set-Up / TREK Madone 5.2 SL / OCLV 110 Carbon Frame
I learned after a third bout of UTIs in rapid succession that something had to change quickly in the saddle department. A number enquiries led me to the Spiderflex saddle as a potential solution to that ongoing health issue.
Firstly. I acquired a new seat post, one that clamped the seat rails from the top down instead from the sides. This added stability. I moved the seat on the rails to what looked to be the most comfortable position with the rails parallel with the ground. I took the bike on the road with a set of allen keys and tweaked the seat until I felt comfortable with it. I also moved the handle bars up a few degrees, this helped with shoulder and arm comfort.
The bottom line is: With this saddle there are no pressure points on the peritoneal area and thus no pain or numbness. The more I ride this new system, the more comfortable it is.
One note of caution,on steep descents it is important that you are well back in the saddle to keep your weight correctly distributed in order to avoid wheel wobble.
Jacquie Pisauro / Spiderflex REC Set-Up / Surly Long Haul Trucker
This is a Surly Long Haul Trucker touring bike so the handlebar is already a little higher and the headtube is a little longer than on typical road bikes. Before we put on the Spiderflex seat, the bars had already been raised with 6 10-mm spacers. The main adjustment that the guy at the bike shop did when he checked for proper and comfortable position of the Spiderflex seat was to move the seat down some. I gave him your emails and the info about adjusting the seat. That is the factory stem and he says that it has not been cut and that it is in the "up" position.
Seat Post Clamps
The Spiderflex REC has heavy duty 8mm rails, compared to just 7mm rails on most seats, but no modifications are needed. The seperation distance between the rails (center to center) is 43mm, and is standard width for seat post clamps.
The Spiderflex saddle attaches to your existing seat post clamp, and will fit the newer style "micro-adjustable" post clamp, or the older style "U" clamp. The clamp on your seat post should look simular to one of these clamp styles in order to fit it on.
Micro-Adjustable Clamp
U-Clamp
** When installing a saddle on to a U clamp post system, always remove the clamp parts and set them down in the order they were removed. This insures the correct order for re-assembly. Tighten securely after assembly. **
** If your existing seat post has the older style "U" clamp, and you decide to up-grade to a "micro-adjustable" post, (these posts are easier to install and make adjustments on a saddle) your existing seat post will have a size # stamped on it. This # will give you the proper replacement size. The newer "micro-adjustable"posts are carried by all the bike shops. **
Can't move your saddle back far enough to get more distance between the saddle and the bars?
We do not sell seat posts, or accessories, but if you do a Google search for "set back seat posts" you will find retail suppliers for these specialized post systems.